Painting Basecoat on Primed Tumbler

So now we have a primed Stainless Tumbler.  If you have not read the first step in painting a stainless tumbler please check out this article.

The amount of time required for the Self Etch Primer will depend on what brand that you use, Temperature of the Cup, Paint and Room.  How many coats of primer and air movement.

2 light coats is always better than 1 monster heavy coat.

A small area that is cold, a cold cup, cold paint, with no air movement, and heavy application will require longer flash times.  A warm cup, warm room, nice light coat(s) with a fan moving air will dry much faster.

Please note.  I have found that all aerosols will spray better if warm.  Also sometimes aerosol tips will plug if the can is too cold.  I supply an extra tip with all of my aerosols just in case.  You can warm a can in warm water or storing in a warm room.  Keep in mind just because the thermostat is at 70, doesn't mean the lowest shelf on the outside wall will be at 70 degrees.

I applied 2 light coats of UPOL Acid 8 to this cup.

I was able to sand dirt nibs out in 13 minutes on the primer for this cup.  The primer that I recommend is available as light gray or black and there is more info on the first article.  This cup was actually dry sooner than 13 minutes but I was multi tasking.

So, lets paint!

Normally I would have primed this cup with light gray.  But I had black.  So lets go with Black!

I put a bag inside this cup and taped the edge to keep any over spray from getting inside.  The final tape applied for the edge is a "Fine Line Tape"  There are many brands.  All work.  Some work better than others due to how they bend and how they stick, and how they release.

I highly recommend FBS tapes.  It is used by many custom painters including Nub for those familiar with him.

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I used 1/4 inch for this.

This is available in other thicknesses.

1/8 inch

1/2 inch

The hard part is over!  (and it wasn't really hard!)

I nib any minor dirt out with 600 grit sand paper.

You do not need to sand the primer unless you leave it sit for over the products recommended recoat time.  Generally I can go 24 hours without sanding.  If you were to bulk up on primed cups (which I would do) then lightly sand with 600 or a gray scuff pad (see previous article) being very careful with sharp edges without cutting through the primer and rock on.

Now grab your paint gun, or aerosol of your choice and add some color.  This project I used a solid white but this could have been pearl as the same procedure.

I use the tack rag mentioned in the prepping stainless between every coat.

Here is one coat of basecoat.

So we have a couple pieces of dirt.

In 12 minutes I sanded the dirt out with 600 grit sandpaper and ready for the next coat.

If this was pearl, I would probably put a very light mist coat over the sanded area to make sure the pearl looks natural.

Now it is Yellow and clear coated.  I put white down first because Yellow does not cover over black.

You can see that I removed the Fine Line while the clear was still wet so that you end up with a smoother transition because the clear rolls down a bit.  If you let it dry, I generally take a razor blade and lightly scribe by the fine line edge to aid pulling the tape up.

So the million dollar question.  How much paint?

I am finding that I am using about 1/2 ounce of paint or primer per coat.  How you apply and the size of the cup can effect this amount.  I have mostly done 30 ounce cups.

So with that figure, one aerosol will do about 16 coats of paint or primer.  I have done 12 cups out of the current UPOL Acid 8 that I am using and there is still some there.

With that same figure we would get about 16 cups out of a aerosol of pearl that we have discussed with one coat.  Most times one coat of pearl will probably give you the effect that you want unless your color already on the cup is way off as one coat will not give you "coverage".

What I see as the big advantage using these automotive products is time and quality and durability of the finish.

A raw prepped stainless cup to basecoat ready for the next step is about 30-45 minutes.  

The basecoat could go directly to the Marble Paints from Beach Girlz Glitter.  You could go directly to your next step with epoxy for applying pearl or Flake/glitter.  However, the clear coat would act like an insurance coat in case of an oops.  I could wipe wet epoxy off of the clearcoat without destroying what is underneath if necessary.

I let the base flash about 15 minutes before clear coating unless there are numerous coats then I wait a bit longer.  I should be able to safely run a tack rag over all coats before the next coat is done.

Or by clear coating as illustrated a cup could be done in about one hour.  Or I would wait about an hour before applying vinyl as that would trap solvents, then you would be done in 2 hours or so.  These would be able to be delivered the following day.

If you have ability to spray with either an airbrush or paint gun, I also supply a clear basecoat that is ready to add pearl to.  This is the way to go if possible from a cost stand point, but aerosols are easy with no clean up.

The next article will be painting directly to a powder coated cup.

Then I will be doing an article on heating your cups easily, safely and cheaply.

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